This morning I woke up at 2:45 to get gather all my things and be in the union by 3:15. Surprisingly everyone showed up and we were ready to go we all grabbed our box breakfasts and headed off the ship at about 3:45 to the get on the bus to the airport. I got on the bus with Jeff and the Ryan’s. But one of the Ryans couldn’t find his Ship ID which you have to swipe whenever getting on or off the ship. So we all got on the bus and waited for him. After about 15 minutes we all couldn’t imagine he was still looking for it so we started asking people and found out that some kid took off running about a minute ago and they thought it might be Ryan (keep in mind Ryan has a swollen sprained ankle from playing volleyball in the sea Olympics). I didn’t really believe it was him running because there were four huge busses right at the end of the gangway you couldn’t miss. So we pulled away and decided to leave without him so we could make our flight. On our way out of the port we were almost to the gate and Ryan came up running next to the bus. Come to find out it was him that took off running apparently he didn’t see the buses and thought we already left him and took off running but he ran in the wrong direction luckily he made to the bus and didn’t miss out on the trip. So now we were all ready to go to the airport and fly to Delhi.
As we were driving through the city at 4 in the morning most people were talking or sleeping. I sat looking out the window to see what the city looked like at night. It was amazing to me to see how many people were sleeping on the ground and how many people were awake walking around, driving, or doing other various things. We came to this round about where we were stopped and I looked out the window to see a small dirt area where about 200 hundred people or so seemed to be sleeping on the ground covered in blankets. The bus was still full of chatters as my heart was breaking at the many many people on the ground as I was in a bus and about to get on a plane. As I sat taking in the moment a woman woke up and sat up to breastfeed her baby. This hit me hard that there was a baby born into nothing and at a few months old was already sleeping out in the filth and litter of the city. I thought about that baby’s life to come and where it would be in a few years and realized probably not any better off than he was now. (Since I am now writing this after returning from India I had a discussion in a class and some girl justified this by saying that all people in India believed in karma and that they are fine with the way they are living because it is their karma and what they deserve because of something they have done in a past life) This too didn’t sit with me well because while I understand it and it seems like a good idea if you can’t remember your past life and just remember the present how fair is it to you to live in this manner because of a past life you never knew.
We continued on our way to the airport and got on a 2 and half our flight to Delhi switched planes and took about an hour flight to Varanasi. Both of our flights were very nice and probably better than any flight I have taken in the U.S. I sat next to this guy named Penn who is from boulder and goes to UVA. We then took an hour or so bus ride I believe to our hotel. As we drove Varanasi wasn’t as developed as Chennai and seemed more rural. The streets weren’t as well paved but the streets were still packed with people I couldn’t believe our big tour bus was making it around the streets without hitting someone. Then all of a suddent we pulled up a street after seeing shack after shack, store front after store front, beggar after beggar, and cow after cow to see our beautiful hotel. It was a very nice hotel amongst such a poor city. Our room was huge with two full beds a TV with cable, and a really nice bathroom. The hotel had a bar and a swimming pool. When I looked out the window of my hotel I could see the hotel pool and on the other side of the fence a person’s home that looked like it was barely standing. You truly can see one extreme to the next right next to each other in India.
After getting settled in our hotel we went to the oldest silk factory in the state I believe. Or at least we went to one of the few places left where people are using the old machines and hand crafting silk. We got to see how the machines work and meet the men who use them. It is amazing how much time it can take to only do ten centimeters in some cases that much fabric can take up to a day which is why it is so expensive. After they showed us a demonstration we went into the show room and the salesman started laying out fabrics all over the room just as the man had yesterday in his shop. Everyone started shopping around and since I had already bought scarves I sat back and watched, then I noticed him start showing duvet covers. I didn’t really see one I loved kept my eye open, I finally noticed one that I could live without and had to purchase it. When I went to buy it thought my credit card wasn’t being accepted, I was bummed but knew I would live without the duvet cover. I only mention this part of the story to tell you how nice and trusting the people I met were. One of our tour guides offered to buy the duvet cover for me and then he would later take me to an ATM where I would pay him back. I only hoped my ATM card worked, because he was being so generous and kind. So I was able to get my fabulous duvet cover from one of the oldest silk factories in the state it was definitely a great purchase with an amazing story behind it. After the silk factory everyone was extremely hungry so we went back to the hotel for some lunch before doing a little more shopping at what our tour guides said would be a market.
Lunch at the hotel was good a little more chicken curry, rice, noodles and Indian bread. After lunch we then took a walk to what we thought would be a market. First we walked into this building and were told to check out the downstairs. When we entered the room there was potato sacks all over the room at first I wasn’t sure what were looking at but then I noticed a small group of men and women sitting on the floor making jewelry. I then looked inside the bags and noticed they were filled with beads. We said hi to the people and watched them do their work the jewelry they were making was very beautiful. Then someone noticed something they looked inside a box where they saw packages for Macy’s with earnings in them that looked like the earrings the men in front of us were making. We all stared at each other not really wanting to believe that the jewelry being sold in Macy’s was coming from these people sitting on the ground in the basement of a building in very poor conditions. We then went upstairs to look at what they kept calling a market to find one of the most colorful and big jewelry stores I have ever seen in my life. I was so overwhelmed with beads, bracelets, necklaces and earrings I couldn’t even buy one because I couldn’t choose so instead I took pictures of all the amazing colors I was looking at. I then finally made it to the ATM where I could pay back my very generous tour guide.
We then all came back to the hotel to get ready for our rickshaw ride to Varanasi and the ceremonies that take place every night on the shores of the Ganges River. We took our bus through the city and turned into what looked like a park where over a 100 rickshaw drivers with their bikes were waiting for us.
We stepped out of the bus and Jeff and I picked our rickshaw driver and took our seats. The seat was very small me and Jeff barely fit both of us in it. My butt was slightly off the seat and I don’t think either of us were comfortable but we were excited for the ride through the city in a rickshaw rather than a huge bus. Our rickshaw driver didn’t speak much English but was very nice and very thin I wasn’t sure he would be able to pull both Jeff and I behind him. As we were all getting situated another two buses showed up and another 70 SAS kids walked out and also got into rickshaws. Kelly, Anna, Abby, Courtney and Erica were on those buses and it was nice to see them! We took a few pictures and before we knew it we were out in one of the busiest streets I have ever seen in my life. It was filled with cars, motorcycles, rickshaws, cows, and people walking. It was chaotic and I wasn’t sure we would be able to move through everyone but somehow we moved right along next to everyone. You are so close to people you could reach out and touch anyone next to you in another rickshaw, car, or motorcycle. I still don’t understand how I haven’t seen one accident there are no rules to the road but also no one seems to get angry or upset with each other they all just move around each other trying to get where they are going as fast as possible.
We finally arrived and were told to get out of the rickshaw and we would walk the rest of the way to the shore of the river. As we got out we were immediately surrounded by beggars and people trying to sell us things. I don’t know how we moved through the crowd but we pushed and slowly made our way out and to the steps down to the river. As I looked down the stairs there were beautiful lights everywhere but on every step I took down to the river there was a beggar, cripple, or young kid crying asking for mine and the others help. Every step I took I had to ignore the starving, weak, and homeless around me. At this point it was easier for me to pretend to be deaf and blind as though I couldn’t hear or see them, because if you even acknowledge them your are trapped within a conversation of bargaining for anything you have to give them. As hard as it was it was the easiest way for me to make it down the steps and through the streets without looking into peoples eyes who truly need help and refusing them that help. As you are saddened by what you see I was also slightly frightened in a sense. Not frightened for my life but for the peoples lives around me who don’t seem to even be able to help one another but only fight for their lives and their lives only. In all other countries I have been to and seeing poverty, there are people within the community who group together to help one another but here it was different. Everyone was fighting for their lives and no one seemed to help one another even other Indians of upper class walk past and don’t help. The poverty is on such a large scale it is as if there is nowhere to begin.
As we finally made our way down what seemed like the longest set of stairs ever we arrived at a nice mans coffee shop who let us sit atop his balcony to watch the ceremonies that would take place in a short time. I found the girls and we all sat together on a stair case looking out over the river. I was sitting along the railing and when I looked down I saw a man peeing I wasn’t that surprised because I had seen people peeing on the side of the road all day. Although as the night went on I realized that where the man I first saw pee was actually a somewhat of a designated “bathroom” if you will. It alongside a wall and it was as if everyone knew that was the bathroom. Throughout the hour or so we sat there I can’t tell you the number of people who went pee on the wall. This wall is out in public and alongside a staircase where I saw young kids running down barefoot right through the urine like they didn’t see it.
Also at this point in my night I have finally gotten used the “smell of India” but am starting to notice a slight cough that I assume is coming from the pollution. The air in the sky is not blue like we learn here it is a light brown/ grey color. No matter what time of day or where you look you will not find blue sky. I thought I knew what pollution was but not until I saw people urinating and kids walking through it, trash build up everywhere you look, and air you feel you could touch and grab a speck of dirt out of did I realize the smog I complain about in California is nothing and the air I breathe in Colorado is probably some of the cleanest air in the world.
We sat waiting for the ceremonies to begin there was speaker on the building next to us and a voice came out of it singing some type of chant. I wish we had a personal tour guide to sit and tell us all about what the different parts of the ceremony mean. From what I was able to understand the ceremony we were watching take place along the river is to release all the bad spirits into the river for the day. There was a group of men and women dressed in orange who performed the ceremonies. They were I assume some type of religious figure. Bells were rung and rituals were performed. It was beautiful to watch and amazing to know that this took place every night in this very spot. I thought about the many people who have seen this and how it hasn’t changed throughout the years, days, or weeks. It is always the same ceremony. The ceremony wasn’t over but it was time to leave and head back to our rickshaws for our ride back through the city and to our bus.
We once again had to walk up the stairs passing the hundreds of beggars and homeless in need of our help. I again walked by as if they didn’t exist it broke my heart but it was easier for me to not acknowledge them then to walk by look them in the eyes and saw no. As we were looking for our rickshaw driver we were once again surrounded by young kids and men trying to sell us souvenirs like necklaces, postcards, batteries anything you can think of. I too ignored them to not even give them a chance to bargain with me. Saying “ But its nice I give you good price and made for you! “. My method seemed to be helpful as I look back at Jeff and he has a strange look on his face and says “Did you see that!?!?” I said No, what are you talking about? Apparently a crippled man with two fingers had attempted to reach out and grab me. We had also been warned about this possibly happening. I was happy I didn’t see it and glad to have Jeff walking with me. We finally found our rickshaw driver and made our way back to the buses. By this time it was dark and the city was still thriving with people selling things and the streets as busy as ever. I am confused how people make money in the city those who have shops or shacks they sell things from. Because it seems as though everyone is either a store owner or souvenir seller on the street, or a rickshaw driver. There are so many people everywhere and it seems as though every store sells the same thing either food or sari’s. There are many different types of stores and it is amazing how many shops there are. Although with over a billion people, as much as I sit and think about anything I saw in India I only come out with more questions and feeling more confused than I started.
After our fun and scary rickshaw ride back to the bus, we were finally done after an extremely long, busy, exciting day and we headed back to the hotel and to bed because we would be waking up at 4:45 tomorrow morning.