March 7th, 2009

This morning we woke up at 4:45 to head back to the Ganges River and watch the sunrise as well as witness the cremation ceremonies that take place all day everyday alongside the river.  We took our bus once again as close as possible and walked the rest of the way to the river.  We were let out of our bus on some random street it was still pitch black and hard to see anything but as soon as we were out of our bus at least 5 people were surrounding us trying to sell us things.  I was surprised to see so many people awake and walking through the street with us it was as if they never went to sleep.  Also while walking down the street making our way down to the river we passed numerous people sleeping on the ground.  It was an weary and exciting feeling walking through the street in pitch black darkness, the city seemed so peaceful and since it was dark you couldn’t see the poverty in full light or things around you so you could enjoy the feeling of being in India! 

 

We ended up at the top of those same stairs we had walked down the night before although this time there wasn’t the hundreds of beggars lining them.  There in fact were only about 50 or so people trying to sell us things.  As we headed down the stairs towards our boat the city was very calm, and beautiful.  It was just starting to get light out and the colors of the buildings were beautiful.  While we were waiting to board the boat I noticed a man signing to some of the girls in front of me I think they thought he was trying to sell them something but he only had two things in his hand and wasn’t talking.  I kept watching and noticed that he seemed to be deaf.  I looked at him and watched his hand signals I realized now what he was trying to tell the girls.  He was trying to tell them that the sun would rise at 7 am, he wasn’t even trying to sell them anything he just seemed to be friendly and to want to talk.  His eyes were very kind and friendly, he helped me on the boat and I didn’t think I would ever see him again. 

 

We split the group of about 70 of us into two different boats.  Once on the boat we each bought a flower and candle from a young boy who came on our boat.  We were told to place them in the water to send away bad spirits and that we could also make a wish.  After we bought them I noticed everyone still sitting and not placing them in the water.  A few minutes later I looked down and realized my candle was almost out and the only two other things between my hand and the flame were made of paper.  Soon the paper the wax was on caught on fire quickly I got nervous and kind of tossed it in the water.  Jeff laughed at me and yelled “You didn’t even make a wish!” haha I was just thankful my hand wasn’t on fire.  We slowly paddled around the river enjoying the scenery.  As we were paddling we noticed that there were people entering the water or bathing?  This is something that happens every morning people come to bath in the holy water of the Ganges to begin their day.  I cant count the many number of people we saw bathing in the river that I was told to not even touch because I may get a parasite with all the pollution and even ashes being dumped in the water only a few hundred feet down the shore.  It was amazing to watch and see these people, bath, worship and wash their clothes in this river that is so sacred to them and yet seemed so polluted to me.

 

 We sat and watched the sunrise before getting closer to the cremation ceremonies that were taking place not to far from where we were.  The sunrise had to be one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen to look out around me and where I was, knowing what this river meant to so many people and witnessing this sunrise that seemed fake it was that beautiful.  Like I have said India has some of the most beautiful sites and colors in the world amongst some of the poorest and dirtiest areas I couldn’t imagine ever existed.  India really is a “land of contradictions”.  As we sat watching the sunrise we looked up to some of the buildings to see monkeys jumping from building to building.  Also while sitting enjoying this moment I was experiencing I noticed two boats float up next to ours and two men were trying to sell us souvenirs.  I honestly don’t think these men ever give up, their determination to sell us these items is remarkable.  They held on next to us for what felt like 5 minutes with everyone ignoring them finally someone caved in and bought something causing a train reaction of everyone wanting something.  Although after that they wouldn’t leave us alone and stayed attached to our boat until we were back ashore.  I felt bad for the two men rowing our boat and having to pull along these other to boats as well. 

 

After everyone bought a few things from these men we were pulling up to the place where the cremations took place.  It was not as intense as I thought.  It looked like a small fire although the body parts resembled logs, our guide informed us it can take up to for 45 hours for the body to completely burn.  Family members were gathered around the fire with the men close and the women standing back watching from a distance.  There were a few other bodies placed on the stairs near the fire covered with an orange sheet waiting to be placed in the fire.  We were told that the bodies must be burned soon after the person has died so many people travel to Varanasi and wait to die.  This way they are here and ready to be placed into the holy river.  The ritual to me was very sacred and was full of tradition.  I loved the idea of it and at the same time felt rude for being a witness to someone’s body being burned, I was watching a funeral of someone I didn’t know. 

 

When we got to the shore, again we were greeted by the many many young boys and men trying to sell us trinkets and things.  I was surprised to see the deaf man who had been so kind helping me onto our boat earlier in the morning.  As we started winding through the small ally ways to get back to our bus, the deaf man walked with me.  He didn’t try to sell me the bindi’s or post cards in his hand.  He was just my own personal tour guide (although I was still following our tour guide as well) through the small streets telling me which way to turn to watch out for things on the floor or things I may hit my head on.  I  noticed that our group wasn’t really following our tour guide and got left behind but I was so interested in talking with this man I kept following and knew the group would catch up or were following our other tour guide.  As we walked for about 20 minutes up and down these allies.  The man gestures and asked me all kinds of questions, as well as helping me through the streets moving cows out of my way, telling me to watch my head, and even pointing out cow poop so I didn’t step in it.  He asked me how old was, if I was married, if I drank, when I got there, when I was leaving, if I smoked,  and if I was religious to name a few questions.  I would answer and ask him the same questions.  After about 15 minutes I was able to slowly catch up to Jeff who I knew spoke a little sign language.  Jeff than came back to join me and the man in the rest of our walk.  Jeff was able to find out his name was Moyun and that he had lost his hearing when he was three.   Moyun also asked Jeff if I was his girlfriend, and when he wanted to get married.  We finally ended up on the main street where we thought we were waiting for our bus but there was only about 20 of us we weren’t sure where the rest of the group was and neither did our tour guide.  He sent a random man on a motorcycle to go around another direction to look for them.  About ten minutes later we found out where the group and bus was.  Moyun still this entire time stood talking with Jeff and I, making fun of my about 30 bug bites on my calves and ankles.  Throughout our walk I had bought his postcards from him that looked like he had been carrying them for weeks but I was happy to buy something from him.  Moyun stayed with us until we were on the bus and waved us off. 

 

Now looking back on my entire trip in India, I have realized that the best conversation and experience with an Indian person was with Moyun.  He took the time to talk to me and not sell me something.  He was a truly kind hearted person and you could see it in his eyes.  He was the one person I met who seemed to be of a lower cast who opened up and wanted to get to know me not because I was a dollar sign to him but to just get to know me. 

 

We then left Moyun and headed back to our hotel to pack our bags and get ready to fly back to Delhi.  Before our flight though we had a few more stops to make.  First we stopped at Sarnath, the ruins of the ancient city where the Buddha preached his first sermon.  “It is as holy to Buddhists as varanasi is to hindus.  When we arrived we were told to take our off our shoes to enter the building.  Donations of around a dollar were required to take pictures inside.  I this time decided to not take pictures and to just enjoy it.  It was very small inside but at the far end of the building was a very large gold Buddha.  We then walked a few hundred feet across a courtyard to see the “tree” that Buddha sat under when he became enlightened.  About 60 years ago the tree died and they had to replant a replica tree.  But to still stand in that spot was really cool and surrounding the area in which the tree was incased were Buddhist prayer flags.  They represent the earth, sky, wind, and I can’t remember what else.  They are blue, red, white, green, and yellow.  We then left that site and moved onto to see the stupa and ruins of an ancient monastery only a short walk down the road.  Again I wish we had a better tour guide to walk with me and tell me the stories of the places I was looking at.  While I understood basically what they were I was walking around enjoying myself but not really understanding what I was looking at. 

 

Next we made our way to the airport, where we had some lunch before boarding our plane back to Delhi.  When we arrived in Delhi we didn’t have much time to do anything so we took a driving tour of the city.  We got to see the ceremonial avenue, parliament house, and the official residence of the president of India (whom is the first woman president of India although she doesn’t have as much of a political role as the prime minister).  We were able to make one stop at the Birla Temple.  It was very large and beautiful but modern.  We once again took our shoes off and were given a tour of the temple.  We saw the many different places to pray to the various gods and learned what gods you pray to for certain things.  Our guide told us that you always first pray to Ganesha (my favorite god who is in the form of an elephant) you pray to him first as he is said to be good luck.   Finally by around 8 we finally made it to our hotel.

 

Our hotel was amazing and seemed like a resort with its own clubs, bars, hooka bars, restaurants, spas and so on.  It was so nice we were all shocked but very excited.  We were greeted with a string of flowers placed around our neck at the door.  After we figured out our room Jeff, the Ryans and I met downstairs for dinner.  Dinner was great and we still weren’t too tired so we decided to explore the hotel.  The boys wanted to find some cigars so we went into a café in the hotel so they could find them.  I started talking with one of the chefs who said he was new on staff and one of the youngest, but that he had heard great things about the SAS students who had stayed at the hotel in the past.  He seemed just as excited for us to be there as we were.  As I was waiting for the boys to pick out the cigars, I started to do what I do in a lot of places I started dancing with my feet (kind of like different ballet positions and what not)  If you know me you know this happens often and I don’t realize I am doing it.  Well the chef and a waitress both noticed and asked if I danced, I was embarrassed but said yes.  He told me he was a dancer and gave me a little demonstration of the Indian dance he does.  It was nice because in my dance class on the ship for my final presentation I am doing the Baranthyum (an Indian dance) with my group.  I told him and he seemed impressed that on the ship I am learning things like that.  We finished up our conversation as the boys got their cigars and we continued to explore the hotel.  The boys decided to go to the hooka bar but I was tired and ready for bed because tomorrow we would be waking up at 4:15!